PGC2019: Baronessa Isabel Maria's Sugar Cone

This sweet wee entry in the category "Do you think because you are virtuous that there shall be no more cakes and ale" is explained thusly:

Sugar Cone

A detail from "...the art in which sugar is made" by Jan van der Straet. 
You can see the sugar cones drying on the table, and the empty moulds on the floor

Many, many years ago, in London, I found myself intrigued by a number of things I saw in museums; one of which was reproduction sugar cones and a couple of original moulds.  Having not really had the chance to explore this particular fascination, I asked myself some of questions: “did they use sugar in 16th century cooking?”, “what did period sugar look like?” and “ was it actually transported or sold in cones?”

A little light research (in period recipe books I have on hand) indicated that yes, sugar was used in late 16thc cooking.  Some more research suggested it could be purchased in a variety of forms and degrees of refinement.

Construction

I mixed brown sugar, caster sugar, and demerara sugar together until I got the sort of colour indicated in my notes from the museums I visited in 2003.  I then sprinkled in a few drops of water, (just enough for the sugar to hold together when pressure was applied) and mixed it through.

A small amount of the sugar mixture was transferred to a lightly oiled mould and pounded into shape with the end of a chopstick.  I roughed up the surface of the moulded sugar before adding more and pounding that into the mould.  This was repeated until the mould was full.  After drying for a couple of days, the sugar cone was tipped out and allowed to fully air dry.

Verdict

In this form, the sugar bit shattery to use, but fun to make and it looks sufficiently different from modern sugar to not look out of place in a period style spice box.  

As I don’t have any sugar nippers, I have to shave or grate off any sugar I want to use.  This difference also serves to remind me that sugar was an expensive “spice” in the 16th century, and should be used sparingly.  The fact this sugar cone causes that change in my mindset while cooking is particularly pleasing.

Resources

• “The art in which sugar is made” by Jan van der Straet, early 1580s, Posner Library
• “Sugar” Medieval Cookery website http://medievalcookery.com/notes/sugar.html
•  “Sugar versus honey in Byzantine recipes” by Petros Bouras-Vallianatos (contains an image of period sugar moulds and molasses pots)